Origin of Lucknow Chikankari
The origin of Chikankari is mysterious and legendary. The word ‘chikan’ is probably derived from the Persian word ‘chikin’ or ‘chikeen’ which means a kind of intricately embroidered fabric. More accurately Chikankari means white floral embroidery brought by Mehrunnissa from Persia. Delicately worked with thread and needle this ancient form of embroidery has been the delight of the royals and the majestic.
The most common story about Chikankari and the evolution of Chikan dates back to the Mughal court of Jahangir where his beautiful and talented queen Nur Jahan was very fond of it. She, being a talented embroider, impressed the king with the ethereal white embroidery which soon gained recognition and royal patronage. Other stories revolve around the 3rd Century BC where Megasthenes, a Greek traveler mentions the use of flowered muslins by the Indians. Evidence of embroidered apparel is found in the famous paintings of Bagh and Ajanta Caves as well.
Mulmuls or Muslin were the best fabrics that were designed with raw thread, a white on white embroidery. It was a subtle embroidery in which minute and delicate stitches stand out as textural contrasts, shadows, and traceries. Some very Mughal miniatures depicting Emperor Jahangir in white embroidered Muslin garments portray the beauty of Chikankari. In a unique form of this art, ‘anokhi chikan’ the stitches do not appear at the back.
PLEASE NOTE that it is “CHIKAN” and not “Chicken”
Lucknow
Lucknow– the state capital of Uttar Pradesh is the northern heartland which is renowned in the world for its traditional Chikankari Embroidery. Though chikankari work is done everywhere, traditional Lucknow Chikankari stands out for its use of floral motifs, and creepers throughout the garment.
Chikankari, is also termed as Lucknowi Chikan or Lucknow Chikankari or Chikan Embroidery. Being practiced in Lucknow for over 200 years now, it is the center of producing aesthetic Chikan work. The decline of the Mughal court led to a huge loss of the artisans and the industry, hence later it was patronized by Nawabs. Most of the garments are first stitched and then embroidered, whereas items like suite material, skirts, saris, and table linen, and so on are first embroidered before finishing. With more than 5000 families involved in the Chikankari embroidery industry, they reside in and around the villages of Lucknow. The artisans mostly belong to the local Muslim community. Though nearly 90% of Chikankari work is done by women professionally, even male give a hand to it.
With the uniqueness of Chikankari extending far beyond other embroidery styles and a wide gamut of stitching-styles involved in Chikankari, it is claimed to be one of its kind hand embroidery that is impossible to be imitated.
Today’s Scenario
Initially, only cotton fabrics and white threads were used in the Chikankari work. Currently, in the present scenario, chikankari work over cotton, georgette, semi-georgette, net, and chiffon is more prevalent in Lucknow with exceptional and excellent workers in this region creating beautiful pieces. A finished fabric with chikankari work is a feast to the eye. Yet this involves a lot of labor and hard work which has to be put in to produce such a masterpiece. Check out our product collection on our site. Over a passage of time, chikankari has been confined to a little over twelve popular stitches. But as fashion trends evolved, Chikankari cotton workers also changed their originality to capture the fashion market. Now, one can get Chikankari work done on silk, viscose, organza, chanderi, kota, pure chiffon, muslin, and so on using silk, resham threads, a part from regular white cotton thread, and also stones, aari, zari, pearl, gotapatti, mukeish, beads, mirrors and many more to enhance the rich look. A detailed study of the craft revealed that at the advent it was used in about 75 to 100 stitches to make breathtaking floral “jaals” and “bail” designs. We have a range of Chiffon and Cotton Kurti collection to explore.
Lucknowi Chikankari is not restricted to only women’s fabrics but also has earned a place in men’s Kurtas, especially in wedding dresses. Lucknowi chikankari fabric stands out amongst other types of fabrics available in the market catching everyone’s attention. Though Chikankari comes in various fabric yet don’t ignore the traditional piece on cotton, as cotton is cool, elegant, and this embroidered cotton is rich as well.