Makers in Lucknow keep developing creations since they have realized this is transient innovation and before long will be presented to clients as modest and phony Chikankari kurtis and chikan work suits done through machine weaving.

The primary contrast between Hand and Machine Embroidery is the sewing cycle. Hand Embroidery considers an assortment of lines, string, and textures. Each work is interesting to the stitcher who performed the weaving. Machine weaving is exceptionally uniform and each piece, if different things are sewed, is generally indistinguishable.

Machine Embroidery producing chikan white suits are computer produced. Pre-made examples are fed into a PC program that controls the sewing on the weaving machine. All designs are uniform in their lines and each of the products of Lucknow chikankari appears to be identical. There is no fluctuation for the stitcher’s enthusiasm for fine art. The pattern will be sewed similarly as the PC design directs. Machine Embroidery can’t have its strings separated as the Hand Embroidery needle craftsman can do with the handwork. Strings are ordinarily made of rayon, polyester, or nylon and give a fake look. Very few, only here and there, can the pattern be given a more dimensional look and this is because of the kind of sewing that needs to happen with Machine Embroidery. Lastly, Machine Embroidery generally has almost no “real worth” because of the way that it is mass-created.

Handweaving starts by extending the texture on a circle of either wood or plastic. The loop size relies upon what the stitcher is fine with, yet a little circle is preferred so one can work for their hands underneath the zone where they are sewing beautiful chikan white kurtas. The size of the hand-weaving needle and the string decision is reliant on the kind of Hand Embroidery picked for the undertaking. Alongside needle and string decision, the needle craftsman adds their very own touch to their weaving making the task. Like whatever is the specialty, it requires significant investment and practice to consummate lines, yet in the event that it is something one decides to ace, it carries extraordinary fulfilment to both the stitcher and beneficiary. Each bit of Lucknow chikan work suit and kurta done by Hand Embroidery is special. Regardless of whether it is copied from a similar example, it is the needle craftsman’s carefulness that makes each piece an exceptional masterpiece(check out our unique product list). Some portion of Hand Embroidery’s uniqueness is because of the sorts of strings utilized. The frequently utilized strings are cotton or silk. These strings have great perfection and sheen to them, loaning to the wonderful concealing that is conceivable with certain Hand Embroidery lines. More detail can be accomplished in light of the different thickness of the strings. What’s more? Finally, Hand Embroidery is a token. It has “real worth” since it is tedious and requires workmanship and imaginativeness.

• So, Which Is the Best?

First and Last, if it is not handwork, it is not Lucknow Chikankari.

Hand weaving and machine weaving are two unmistakable techniques for sewing and each has its motivation. It just relies upon your ultimate objective of production of wonderful chikan work suits of Lucknow

A hand weaved Lucknow chikan work is more masterful and individual, making it the ideal method to make an uncommon treasure or a wellspring of pride for the embroiderer. The cycle requires speculation of time and heart to incorporate the subtleties that will make the weaving stick out.

Machine weaving, then again, delivers more expert glancing work in a small amount of the time it takes to accomplish something comparative by hand.

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We need to look satisfactory without investing energy in our outfits since let’s be honest, we love to spruce up however we don’t generally have sufficient opportunity! Along these lines, here is an outfit- Lucknow chikan suits, which is your one-stop arrangement.

Lucknowi Chikankari design is always independent of developing style and patterns. Chikankari class never blurs away. Resuscitate Lucknow’s ageless craftsmanship with white chikan work Kurti. The modernity of this Chikan long/short Kurti is a case of immortal couture. In this post, we give you three distinct manners by which you can style this exemplary Chikan work long/short Kurti.

A fundamental ethnic style staple that each lady should have is clearly a Kurti be it long or short It is the most satisfying garment in a lady’s closet. Decent, stylish, and satisfying, Kurtis can be a style declaration moreover. All you require is a little imagination and coordination to change over your common Kurti into a basic style that will depict your fashionista side.

Is it accurate to say that you are exhausted from the conventional salwar and churidars and looking for a pleasant change to redo your ethnic style? Grasp the most moving design clubbing a palazzo or legging with the Kurtis’s. Staying aware of the most stylish trend pattern we present you Long Chikankari Kurtis to match up with palazzo or any tights. These palazzo or tights combine the stunning quality and customary Lucknowi chikankari artisanship. Everything about this indigenous meet contemporary outfit is murmuring class and style. On the other hand, we have Lucknowi Short Tops/Short Kurtis too.

Dupattas are a significant piece of Indian troupe; they are an ideal epitome of beauty and class. Presenting complicatedly weaved subtleties and unobtrusive tints with White Cotton Lucknowi Chikankari Dupatta. Amaze up and make a great look by designing any colour Dupatta with Georgette Chikankari Kurti. The coloured Cotton Dupatta envelops chikan weaving shaped flawlessly with white and coloured cotton strings alongside blue ‘Daraz’ work and sews the trim on the fringes.

Donning a delightful White cotton Kurti with Chikankari, take a shot at it. This is such an exemplary set and can be worn on any unique event. Simply play with your adornments or oxidized silver gems pieces. It can take your outfit from spot to fab. Chikankari might be old workmanship however it’s without a doubt one of the most engaging design patterns among influencers and individuals of note.

Praise your chikan Kurti with a Cotton Lucknow Chikankari Jacket to make head turns with your stylish style explanation. Chikan Jackets or ‘Koti’ are increasing a ton of notoriety in ongoing time, they have become an ‘absolute necessity have’ adornment thing on all combination wear darlings list. At Shaan-e-Awadh, we are associated with our underlying foundations through chikankari make while simultaneously we are normally concocting our plans. With the Blue Chikan coat, the finesse of chikan weaving is amalgamated with the panache of a coat.

A charming encounter of needle and string work, this fine weaving is enthralling an enormous number of individuals since the time summer hit the dividers. On an ordinary premise, you can wear chikankari kurtas, anarkalis, dupattas, and even co-ordinate sets for the exceptional glitz remainder. A White Lucknow Chikankari set makes an ideal outfit for a get-together, a gathering, or for easy-going activities with your companions. It will undoubtedly get attention and you will get praise for your outfit easily.

The post Your Daily Ethnic Fashion – Short Kurtis/Long Kurtis appeared first on Shaan-e-Awadh Chikankari.

Unsure as to how and when Chikankari took over the hearts of the Bollywood stars, Chikankari dupattas, white chikan kurtas, sarees, lehengas, and men traditional did take over other their styles and silhouettes. The hand embroidery of Lucknow chikankari in whites and light colors became the new love of not one but almost all Bollywood Kings and Queens.

The widely famous chikankari of Lucknow found several ardent fans in Bollywood because of its ageless elegance and luxury. A beige Sabyasachi creation was worn by Karisma Kapoor still remains memorable. Later after, Kajol opted for a Tarun Tahiliani blush chikankari attire that she teamed with gorgeous jewelry. Priyanka Chopra, on the other hand, looked to be a pistachio-hued number for the Indian Sports Honours Awards with a strappy blouse.

All this time, while the current wave of celebrities caught on to the chikankari sari, Deepika Padukone succeeded to create another one of her signature looks. From a six-yard staple which was paired with a crystal-embedded blouse to one match with a gota patti one, her wardrobe served as the ultimate blend in wearing chikankari robes. Designed by Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Padukone chose to wear an ivory and gold chikankari sari that was brought to life using intricate, tone-on-tone thread embroidery of Lucknowi chikankari along with sequins, Swarovski crystals, and gold zardozi embroidery.

Never earlier had traditional staples like chikan cotton kurta, chikan suits, and especially the chikankari sari, been witnessed through a trendy perspective as it is now. Had it not been for these artists, Chikankari would have never got this exposure. Want to drape yourself in the perfect traditional and stylish attire? Wear a pre-stitched creation from Lucknow chikankari. You no longer need to be burdened by heavy embellishments for classics. Get yourself a hand-embroidered version instead tailored only for you. Among the many wispy creations, chikan work of Lucknow arguably holds up to its end of the promised time after time.

Provided that its creation has held its presence through the decades, the delicate manually done embroidery style manages to bring a certain vintage charm to your traditional clothes. When styled in the right way, a chikankari suit can serve you well for almost any festive event on your roster, whether it’s a low-key ceremony or a high-key grand international reception. From the top designers of Lucknow chikankari presenting their views on it to Bollywood’s best-dressed celebrities in making it remarkable for it, there stands a lot of reasons as to why starting to invest in clothes of chikan work can be of worth.

Chikankari from ages unknown has always been one of the favourites in Indian wardrobes for weddings and other festive occasions. It also serves the comfort and hence getting into the casual trend as well. The richness, royalty, delicate and intricate detailing of the traditional Lucknowi chikankari has won a place in the wardrobe of a number of Bollywood stars this year including Deepika Padukone, Alia Bhatt, and Sonakshi Sinha. What is the good part? These celebrities have worn chikankari suits and chikankari cotton kurtas in almost every style and silhouette you can think of this year, along with sarees, lehengas, and anarkalis, so you have plenty of options to choose from among all these styles. So, there goes how our favourite fashionistas have taken Chikankari to a new height and continue to inspire us to take our fashion game up a notch and rock ethnic wear, the chikankari style.

The post How Lucknow Chikankari Started Trending In Bollywood appeared first on Shaan-e-Awadh Chikankari.

The epitome of beauty and grace, Deepika Padukone besides her wonderful performance, is known for her bold and deep sense of fashion. Speaking of which, the diva has been killing it with her gorgeous airport looks in chikankari kurtas. The actress also chose to wear the eye-catching Abu Jani – Sandeep Khosla Chikankari ensemble for her wedding reception. In the ivory and gold dress hand-embroidered by women artisans talented in Lucknowi chikankari, the bride looked like a dream.

Kareena Kapoor Khan was spotted not in one, but two note-worthy chikankari lehengas this year and several white chikankari kurtis in the previous years. The actress wore a light blue lehenga by Manish Malhotra for Akash Ambani and Shloka Mehta’s wedding celebrations in March 2019. She was also seen in a nude chikankari number by Delhi-based label Narjis at an event in Melbourne. Even Deepika Padukone, who has a weakness towards Lucknow chikankari, made a strong choice of white chikankari cotton kurta and other ensembles, picking a six-yard drape by Rahul Mishra for 2019’s Lokmat Maharashtrian Of The Year Awards.

In 2019, chikankari cotton suits and sarees weren’t just reserved for occasions like weddings and big festive events. On their days off, celebrities like Anushka Sharma and Kiara Advani also gave their fans a good show by wearing simple, elegant cotton chikankari kurtas for casual outings. While Sharma stepped out earlier this year in a beautiful sky blue one, Advani was recently seen at a meeting in a fun green robe, which she teamed up with ivory trousers.

Alia Bhatt cast her vote for ivory chikankari outfits in 2019. She attended her cousin, Sakshi Bhatt’s wedding in January dressed in a white chikankari lehenga set from House of Chikankari by Kanika Kapoor, and promoted Kalank (2019) wearing a Manish Malhotra anarkali in the same hue. Alia surprised us as well with her looks for the promotion of Kalank where she wore Chikankari kurta ensembles. The outfits were a wonderful blend of style and grace. The hand embroidery kurtas are now available in a pandora of colours. Janhvi Kapoor has been captured on the streets of Mumbai wearing the breezy pastel colour chikankari cotton kurtas for casual outings. You can definitely take inspiration from her on how to style these kurtas with jeans or with palazzos for a statement look or for a fashionable brunch outfit and legging for the lazy days.

Sara Ali Khan may prefer gowns and dresses on red carpets but her fashion style is all about chikankari kurtas. The actress has been spotted at airports and meetings wearing her favourite kurtas teamed with matching trousers and dupatta. Monochrome is her way to style Chikankari sets and believe it or not, it will become your go-to outfit too.

Priyanka Chopra celebrated her Roka ceremony in a bright yellow Chikankari suit while Nick Jonas also wore lemon coloured Chikankari sherwani. Her floor length suit and his suit set had detailed embroidery with a silver embellished border. She looked gorgeous in her desi girl’s avatar.

Be it a bright hue or a classic ivory piece, Lucknow chikankari is always a good idea when it comes to Indian ethnic dressing. If you don’t own a beautifully embroidered chikan work yet, let your favourite Bollywood stars’ lehengas, kurtas and anarkalis from the previous years inspire you. There is no end to the list of Bollywood divas wrapping them up in Chikankari.

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Stitches

There are 32 stitches of chikankari but they are broadly classified into basic six categories
and all except one are common to other forms of embroidery.

1. Tepchi is a long running or darning stitch worked with six strands on the right side of the fabric taken over four threads and picking up one. Thus, a line is formed. It is used principally as a basis for further stitchery and occasionally to form a simple shape.
2. Bakhiya, double back or shadow stitch in chikan work is done from the wrong side of the fabric and the design is rendered in the herringbone style. The shadow of the thread is seen through the cloth on the right side.
3. Hool is a fine detached eyelet stitch. Herein, a hole is punched in the fabric and the threads are teased apart. It is then held by small straight stitches all round and worked with one thread on the right side of the fabric. It can be worked with six threads and often forms the center of a flower.
4. Zanzeera is a small chain stitch worked with one thread on the right side of the fabric. Being extremely fine, it is used to finally outline the leaf or petal shapes after one or more outlines have already been worked.
5. Rahet is a stem stitch worked with six threads on the wrong side of the fabric. It forms a solid line of back stitch on the right side of the fabric and is rarely used in its simple form but is common in the double form of dohra bakhiya as an outlining stitch.
6. Banarsi stitch has no European equivalent and is a twisted stitch worked with six threads on the right side of the fabric. Working from the right across about five threads a small stitch is taken over about two threads vertically. The needle is reinserted halfway along and below the horizontal stitch formed and is taken out about two threads vertically on the right above the previous stitch.
7. Khatau is similar to Bakhia, but finer and is a form of applique. In Khatau, the design is prepared on calico material. That is placed over the surface of the final fabric and then paisley and floral patterns are stitched on to it.
8. Phanda and Murri are the forms of stitches used to embroider the centre of the flowers in ordinary chikan work motifs. They are typically French knots, with murri being rice-shaped and phanda millet-shaped.
9. Jali stitch is the one where the thread is never drawn through the fabric, ensuring that the back portion of the garment looks as impeccable as the front. The warp and weft threads are carefully drawn apart and minute buttonhole stitches are inserted into the cloth.
10. Turpai and Darzdari or Darazdari are also significant stitches in chikan work. Turpai should have an effect of a thin thread. Darzdari have several varieties, the popular ones are Kohidarz, Kamal darz, Shankarpara darz, Muchii and Singbhada darz.
11. The various other types of legendary chikankari stitches are: Pechani, Bijli, Ghaspatti, Makra, Kauri, Hathkadi, Banjkali, Sazi, Karan, Kapkapi, Madrazi, Bulbul-chasm, Taj Mahal, Janjeera, Kangan, Dhania- patti, Rozan, Meharki, Chanapatti, Baalda, Jora, Keel kangan, bulbul, sidhaul, ghas ki patti etc.
12. Drifting apart from the original pristine setting, the tone-on-tone embroidery is in vogue these days. The significant use of beads, sequin, mokaish or mukeish (white flat silver or golden strip embroidery), gotapatti, pearl, etc have gained wide acceptance.

We proudly declare that being manufacturers we use the best designs and a variety of stitches to produce unique items. So, do check out our Product Collection before you proceed.

Fabric

In addition to the white base fabric, colored fabrics and threads are also used. Silk and cotton threads are employed for embroidery work on sarees, dupattas, table linen and kurtas. Cotton being the most preferred choice, chikankari is also done on mulls/malmal, maslins, voiles, organzas and polyester. Some more include: chiffon, viscose, georgette, polyester georgette, cotton crepe and net. The designs change every other month, as per the market trends, with colors that perfectly match with the season.

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The origin of Chikankari is mysterious and legendary. The word ‘chikan’ is probably derived from the Persian word ‘chikin’ or ‘chikeen’ which means a kind of intricately embroidered fabric. More accurately Chikankari means white floral embroidery brought by Mehrunnissa from Persia. Delicately worked with thread and needle this ancient form of embroidery has been the delight of the royals and the majestic.

The most common story about Chikankari and the evolution of Chikan dates back to the Mughal court of Jahangir where his beautiful and talented queen Nur Jahan was very fond of it. She, being a talented embroider, impressed the king with the ethereal white embroidery which soon gained recognition and royal patronage. Other stories revolve around the 3rd Century BC where Megasthenes, a Greek traveler mentions the use of flowered muslins by the Indians. Evidence of embroidered apparel is found in the famous paintings of Bagh and Ajanta Caves as well.

Mulmuls or Muslin were the best fabrics that were designed with raw thread, a white on white embroidery. It was a subtle embroidery in which minute and delicate stitches stand out as textural contrasts, shadows, and traceries. Some very Mughal miniatures depicting Emperor Jahangir in white embroidered Muslin garments portray the beauty of Chikankari. In a unique form of this art, ‘anokhi chikan’ the stitches do not appear at the back.

PLEASE NOTE that it is “CHIKAN” and not “Chicken”

Lucknow

Lucknow– the state capital of Uttar Pradesh is the northern heartland which is renowned in the world for its traditional Chikankari Embroidery. Though chikankari work is done everywhere, traditional Lucknow Chikankari stands out for its use of floral motifs, and creepers throughout the garment.

Chikankari, is also termed as Lucknowi Chikan or Lucknow Chikankari or Chikan Embroidery. Being practiced in Lucknow for over 200 years now, it is the center of producing aesthetic Chikan work. The decline of the Mughal court led to a huge loss of the artisans and the industry, hence later it was patronized by Nawabs. Most of the garments are first stitched and then embroidered, whereas items like suite material, skirts, saris, and table linen, and so on are first embroidered before finishing. With more than 5000 families involved in the Chikankari embroidery industry, they reside in and around the villages of Lucknow. The artisans mostly belong to the local Muslim community. Though nearly 90% of Chikankari work is done by women professionally, even male give a hand to it.

With the uniqueness of Chikankari extending far beyond other embroidery styles and a wide gamut of stitching-styles involved in Chikankari, it is claimed to be one of its kind hand embroidery that is impossible to be imitated.

Today’s Scenario

Initially, only cotton fabrics and white threads were used in the Chikankari work. Currently, in the present scenario, chikankari work over cotton, georgette, semi-georgette, net, and chiffon is more prevalent in Lucknow with exceptional and excellent workers in this region creating beautiful pieces. A finished fabric with chikankari work is a feast to the eye. Yet this involves a lot of labor and hard work which has to be put in to produce such a masterpiece. Check out our product collection on our site. Over a passage of time, chikankari has been confined to a little over twelve popular stitches. But as fashion trends evolved, Chikankari cotton workers also changed their originality to capture the fashion market. Now, one can get Chikankari work done on silk, viscose, organza, chanderi, kota, pure chiffon, muslin, and so on using silk, resham threads, a part from regular white cotton thread, and also stones, aari, zari, pearl, gotapatti, mukeish, beads, mirrors and many more to enhance the rich look. A detailed study of the craft revealed that at the advent it was used in about 75 to 100 stitches to make breathtaking floral “jaals” and “bail” designs. We have a range of Chiffon and Cotton Kurti collection to explore.

Lucknowi Chikankari is not restricted to only women’s fabrics but also has earned a place in men’s Kurtas, especially in wedding dresses. Lucknowi chikankari fabric stands out amongst other types of fabrics available in the market catching everyone’s attention. Though Chikankari comes in various fabric yet don’t ignore the traditional piece on cotton, as cotton is cool, elegant, and this embroidered cotton is rich as well.

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Lucknowi Chikankari is not restricted to only women’s fabrics but also has earned a place in men’s Kurtas, especially during festivals. The process of Chikankari basically includes designing, engraving, block-printing, embroidery, and finally washing. We gladly say that being manufacturers we go through each of these steps before we come up with the final unique piece of item. So, do check out our Product Collection before you proceed.

There are other steps too if needed for any add-on work like aari zari, gota patti, mukeish, jaali, etc for styling and designing. But these 6 steps below basically sum up the whole process. The process begins with: –

1. Selection of fabric for the item to be made.
2. Cutting of fabric in desired measurements as per item requirement and its stitching, if its a stitched item.
3. Block printing process of the design, called as “chhapayi” locally.
   Initially, the design to be worked is printed on the plain fabric. The wooden block is dipped in the color solution which is made by mixing glue and indigo. Then it is printed on the fabric. There will be different blocks for butis, floral patterns and borders. In Lucknow, the printing process is done by separate group of artisans who mainly concentrate in printing. The printed fabric is now ready for the embroidery work.
4. Actual hand embroidery jobwork of lucknow chikankari, done by skilled artisans over the chhapayi designs, weaved using a needle, thread, and a frame which tightly holds the fabric.
   The embroidery is done over the printed design pattern using needle and thread. The artisan creates traditional patterns using different techniques. Different types of stitches can be made in one product.
5. Washing, polishing (termed as “charakh” locally) and pressing, after item is submitted by artisan called “karigar” locally.
   Washing is the final stage of production process. The fabric after embroidery work is first soaked in water and then washed to remove the block printed blue color. Then it is starched and ironed to obtain stiffness. The final product is now ready for the market.
6. Thread cutting, final finishing and packing.

Traditionally, the Chikan work has been done only on white cotton cloth. A detailed study of the craft revealed that at the advent it was used in about 75 to 100 stitches to make breathtaking floral “jaals” and “bail” designs. Later, it has been done using various types of clothes voile, cambric, malmal, rubiya, PC, silk, chiffon, crepe, georgette, silk, organza, pure chiffon, maslin, viscose, etc are used to do the embroidery work to meet the market trend. In recent times Lucknow Chikankari has adapted to different looks through additional embellishments like Mukaish, Kamdani, Badla, Sequins, Aari-Zari, Gotapatti and use of beads and mirror work.

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The Essentials – Raw Material

• Types of fabrics like cotton (voile, cambric, malmal, rubiya, PC, etc), silk, chiffon, crepe, georgette, silk, organza, pure chiffon, maslin, viscose, etc are used to do the embroidery work.
• Cotton thread is traditionally used to create the design patterns over the cloth.
• Golden zari, silver zari, resham, etc are the types of threads also used to do the Chikankari embroidery.
• Indigo color used in block printing process, also done by hand.
• River water used to wash the clothes to clear the printing marks.
• Starch is used to obtain the stiffness for the washed clothes, also adding better finish to it.

The process of Chikankari mainly includes designing, engraving, block-printing, embroidery, and finally washing. We gladly say that being manufacturers we go through each of these step before we come up with the final output. So, do check out our Product Collection before you proceed.

Artists’ Friends – Tools

• Sui-needle is the important tool which plays a major role in Chikankari work.
• A circular shaped frame is used to hold the cloth as it obtains tautness. These frames are made with cloth as well as wood as per the need. Usually made of plastic these days.
• Wooden blocks are used to print the design on plain cloth.
• A rectangular wooden table used as support during printing process.
• Containers are used while washing the cloth after completion of stitching work.
• Scissors and cutter for, last but not the least, extra thread cutting for final finishing of the item.

Tools play an essential part in Lucknow Chikankari. With the work is completely done by hand, these tools assist the artists here in creating these wonderful pieces of their masterpiece.

In recent times Lucknow Chikankari has adapted to different looks through additional embellishments like Mukaish, Kamdani, Badla, Sequins, Aari-Zari, Gotapatti and use of beads and mirror work. All of them add to the glory of the Chikanari making it look rich and majestic. These various tools and techniques make every item we produce uniquely beautiful and stand out in the fashion market.

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